Rear Drive Shaft Problems / Pot Of Gold Online Game Free Play

Mine has a 1/2" gap when held against either the front or rear yokes. There is a missing spline on the yoke but not on the output shaft. It has leaked about 10 oz over the last couple of weeks. Loosened the rubber boot near transfer case and put a pry bar in between the Yoke but the driveshaft will not push back into transfer case giving me the clearance to remove it.

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I tried a c-clamp on it. Location: S. W. Chicago, IL. Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 6:42 pm. I can't keep all the different kinds of bolts back there straight. Some mechanical types have slots cut into them and you can deform them to grip the bolt thread.

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It's a soft enough material to have a burr on it. I just jury-rigged the end of the puller onto the U-joint at the end of the driveshaft, and gave it a few good bangs with the hammer and it popped off. Posts: 1, 515. your yokes look a little beat up. Location: Pemberton, New Jersey. 67, swb, fleet, tach, throttle, 5. I had to soak my CV joint in PB blaster and let it soak for a day and then get out my biggest pry bar and hammer when I removed mine two weeks ago, though. Anybody know if a transmission shop will repair it if I've done something to the spline? 19th July 2011, 12:13||# 21|. I was curious if the driveshaft would only go on one way but not another. Leave about an inch of Space between Spring and Cross member. Driveshaft will not go in. It looks as if the gear may have dropped out of alignment while the shaft was out.

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Also, if it wasn't already apparent, you'll have to loosen the center nut on the driveshaft halves so you can push the back half forward, otherwise you'll be pushing against the transmission/guibo. As for getting the driveshaft out, if you have all the bolts out I would suggest putting one of them back in only a quarter of the way and then smacking the flange with a hammer where I circled in the first screen shot below. In reply to Sharp: Nylock Nut or generally in the family of 'prevailing' nuts. Maybe I'm not the one to be giving advice....... The speedy sleeve looks very good, is in place were it should and no wear showing. At least the speedo gear is where it should be, relative to the hole. I will put that back on the truck, and then drive it to the shop and let them assess & rework/balance both shafts as needed. Can't separate rear drive shaft flange from diff. Restored, loaded, slammed. As a registered member, you'll be able to: - Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics. Try not to smack at an angle because this can distort the flange. They should not come loose or need locktite. With a little wiggling I've had a spline shaft just slide easily right in. Or tweak something out of line that was not out of line before. It seats deeper in the case than you can see.

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It is also possible the yoke is twisted, but I would suspect the output shaft first. 11-19-2015 07:03 AM. Put the car up on stands and ran it in drive to locate the source of the noise. Fast forward to tonight, the driveshaft now slips in to the 727 fine and goes up to the point where it sits when finally installed (can tell by the surface rust line at the front and where the caps meet the u-joint in the rear. Welcome to Tacoma World! Remember, not many things like a non lubed shaft crammed in somewhere hahahaha. It did go together hard about 10 years ago!!! Can't get driveshaft back in 4. Just Take all the pieces to the DL shop and have it all done at the same time. But I'm always here. Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC.

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Good luck post what u find out and how u fix it. I will look at loosening the engine & trans mounts and see if I can get any movement. Well everything I have tried has not moved anything to change the gap. Post your own photos in our Members Gallery. Where can you get replacements for those u-bolts and nuts? Not just removing the driveshaft, which is what you are talking about. The variable seems to be the new seal. How much splines does it engage when it bottoms out? WTF is the problem getting my driveshaft back in??? Need Help. I just took one apart and there was a short socket left on the bolt that holds the ujoint to the transmission. So is the 1/2" gap showing on the transfer yoke normal or do I just need to replace the rear seal? I read somewhere that hitting it with a real hammer (non-rubber, non-deadblow) was necessary; the metal-to-metal shock is what does the trick. But, the quick fix an ISX. So I tried closing it up by reassembling the suspension.

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The force exerted on the pinion had moved the double race and assembly forward into the counterbored space. Glad things worked out good for you. Can't get driveshaft back in the day. Although it was in the trans very tight, a few taps with a hammer brought it out. Been safety wiring the bolts and bolting it to the frame. Still, I'm positive that I did the diff swap without needing to drop the driveshaft or disconnect anything apart from its connection to the diff. I could always force it but that something I don't like ever doing.

Have you secured the boot with a circlip or jubilee?

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Mon, 29 Jul 2024 10:37:48 +0000